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We really are blessed in this country with so many beautiful places to live and visit. I was in Strangford yesterday afternoon and it was a hive of activity out on the Lough, the terns were making their presence heard and the sun was shining. I went for a walk last week along the Lough Shore on the Co Antrim side and although there were very few small boats around the ships were ploughing up and down and the sun was shining.
And there are so many big houses that once held the gentry but now are open to the public.
In one big country house two miles from Glengormley, the spring cleaning is completed, shelves are polished, silver shining and cutlery sparkling. The range too is shined and the carpets swept, now bring on the visitors. William Fee McKinney would want everything ship shape and Bristol fashion if he was around today because 7000 people came to his house last year and the same number is expected over the summer.
Sentry Hill was his family home in 1832, a farmhouse in the Parish of Carnmoney in Country Antrim and I’m sure he’d be pleased that the current owners, Antrim and Newtownabbey Borough Council, have restored inside and outside to the way it was and so gives a rare insight into life at that time. Archivists have examined diaries, family letters and the extensive library of books and pamphlets and so have put together a realistic opportunity for the public to see the house as it was over 180 years ago.
In what was the old dairy house I sat with Wesley Bonar, the museums and heritage officer for over 15 years and Deirdre Byrne who has worked at Sentry Hill since it was opened in April 2005 and we talked about days gone by.
When William Fee McKinney took over the running of the homestead in the mid 1800s, the 110 acres farm was buzzing. He was married to Eliza and they had five sons and two daughters. As they pursued their own interests, one boy in Africa and three in Australia, his daughter Margaret stayed at home and in his later years looked after her father.
Hard Labour
His family worked in the fields and with the cattle just as he had done as a boy. One entry in his diary spoke of his father scolding him for being slow cutting the corn with a billhook and taking over to do it himself leaving the boy to stack the turf. For four generations the family grew potatoes to feed the animals as well as the workers, they had flax and retting dams with milk being their main product as well as taking butter to sell at market. During the harvest McKinney would visit the Ballyclare and Carnmoney fair to recruit young men and women, there he also hired 12 year old Hannah Hunter for six months as a scullery maid. He’d walk up the village and if there were boys hanging around he’d sign them up to give them employment. It was ironic that on my way home through Glengormley McDonalds had a sign up saying HIRING NOW.
The Eldest Son
Being the eldest son he was taken away from school when he was 11 to help his father run the farm. Obviously he became a pillar of society, secretary of the local presbyterian church, member of the debating society and a man who kept learning, self-educated and a collector. Although there are hundreds of boxes filled with memorabilia, everything is listed and labelled including a New Testament in Irish. There are vivid reports of soirees in the church hall, barn dances on the farm and neighbours from far and wide who delighted in joining in the family festivities.
It’s a delight to see the house with rooms frozen in time yet warm with memories. Now a 23 acre estate, the table is still set for afternoon tea with fine china, the kitchen has all the old fashioned implements around, butter pats impress the children. Deirdre delights in visits from school groups and the opportunity to ask the children where do they think butter comes from – the answers are varied and inventive! Some think milk comes from a carton in Asda! As Deirdre says she asked them where would Farmer McKinney get his toast – again Asda comes into the conversation. She takes them back to basics, the corn to be ground, the cow for the milk, the turf for the range, the churn for the butter and the homemade marmalade. Isn’t it amazing what we take for granted!
History House
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Thanks to the care and love lavished on Sentry Hill, there remains a feeling of welcome; you can get married in the cow byre – no cows but plenty of atmosphere, you can roam the grounds, have morning coffee or afternoon tea and as Wesley puts it, you cross the threshold you will stand where the past shakes hands with the past.
Check opening times or to arrange a talk by Wesley to groups and organisations email wesley.bonar@antrimandnewtownabbey.gov.uk or www.sentryhill.net for more information on the house which is open to the public April to September – school group bookings are welcome throughout the year.
Just across the Lough from Strangford is Portaferry and that’s where Una Reilly and Allison Murphy live. Both have a deep interest in the Titanic and both attended the show at the Opera House last week and like the rest of us were delighted with the musical.
Since the early 70’s, Una Reilly has had a growing involvement in the Belfast ship and has done much to publicise the history, Why? Her great aunt Hanna saw both the Titanic and the Olympic and her great grandfather was a carpenter on board so from an early age she has been fascinated with the story.
“We’d a chessboard he’d made with Titanic wood and aunt Hanna talked about how she sneaked on board and sailed on it during the one day of trials. It was part of the family history.”
Allison Murphy was also intrigued by the story of the largest manmade moveable object in the world but was especially fascinated by the men who build the Titanic. Their story wasn’t so well know so she determined to build an achieve of information and so set to and began talking to people who knew the ship and their families and despite the thought it was entirely a Protestant workforce, she discovered the opposite. Catholic and Protestant worked side by side, living next door to each other all with the one purpose in life, to build the biggest floating vessel in the world and to build it with pride and purpose.
“Not all came from Belfast,” she told me when we met at her home in Portaferry. “Because they were earning the highest wages in Ireland, men came from all over Ireland, Scotland and England even one man came from India!
Belfast was an industrial powerhouse,” she said, “building the world’s biggest everything from the biggest ships in the world in the biggest shipyard, the largest dry dock in the world, biggest rope works, largest tobacco factory, largest linen spinning mill,” and so it goes on. “Greatest tea machinery works, biggest aerated water factor, even the world’s largest banner makers.”
Against this background, in 1909 construction began on the Titanic and workers crowed into the city and there wasn’t enough accommodation for everyone so families took in borders.
“One family in Bryson Street, Lavinia a catholic and her husband Thomas a Protestant, took in six borders on top of their own family, can you imagine six sweaty men coming from the yard using the only sink in the scullery right beside the cooking stove, sharing an outside toilet. Clothes to be washed with no electricity let alone a washing machine.”
All existed happily under the one roof and although the majority of the workforce was Protestant, that was immaterial to the owner of Harland and Wolff, Sir Edward Harland who in 1886 decreed that no man was to be hired or fired because of his religion. He paid his men well, for skilled workers on average the wage was two guineas a week – two pounds and two shilling – the same as a week in Bundoran for a family.
To record the stories Allison took a tape recorder and spoke to those with a family history. She heard about the ‘heater boys’ some as young as 14, who heated up the three million rivets used in the construction, threw the red hot rivets to the ‘catch boy’ who caught them in his gloves gave them to the ‘holder upper’ who held them in place as they were hammered home and about the men who built the first every swimming pool on a vessel, the Turkish bath and the Veranda Cafe with real palm trees.
Teacher, author and historian and a Master in Irish Studies, Allison’s interest grew and when she met Una the two put their heads together and decided to mount an exhibition, Titanic At Home, but when they floated the idea there was little support from the City Council or from newspapers – no one would be interested in the story of a protestant shipyard they were told so they just got on with it and the local society was formed, exhibitions arranged, and the word went round the world. Indeed, I was amazed when visiting Berlin a few years ago to see a replica in the window of a sweet emporium – a chocolate Titanic.
Experienced as events organiser of Belfast Titanic Society and editor of their journal for twelve years Allison with Una dedicated a lot of time and enthusiasm to the story, especially coming up to the centenary commemorations and they have continued their interest in the story and will do so into the future. Doubtful that Titanic Belfast would exist without them.
Last week they saw their passion come alive on stage as a 25-strong cast of actors perform 80 roles, covering individual stories of the First Class, Second Class and Third Class passengers and the hundreds of crew members who worked on the boat’s maiden voyage.
It was marvellous. As the Titanic hit the iceberg and the beautiful ship slowly founders, one of the most moving moments is the duet between Isidor and Ida Straus, an American couple who had been married for over 40 years and who both opted to go down with the ship into the freezing Atlantic.
It’s hard to imagine the devastation felt in Belfast and beyond that night in 1912 when 1523 lost their lives; the tragedy hit young and old, every church despite denomination opened their doors and the Falls Road was ablaze with candles.
Families, friends and the general population crowded outside local newspaper offices in and around Royal Avenue demanding news, no mobile phones or twitter accounts in those days. It took three years to build the Titanic and two hours and 45 minutes to sink, the same duration as the Opera House production.
Have a good week.
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